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How to know a luxury tie when you see it.

Sky, a customer in California asked me:

"Are there some ways to tell just by looking at a tie whether a maker has taken time making a tie?"

Yes and no - Start with the obvious if you pick up a tie and the label is falling off or you see loose threads it was made quickly with little care.

You shouldn't see any stitching except for where the label and keeper are put on then small neat tight stitches.

The bar tack is sewn by hand and again nice neat stitching.

Then look at then look at the edges they should have a soft roll and be even.

Next look at the tips they should be balanced and not have uneven lumps.

Put the tie on and does it simply feel balanced and tie a nice knot? I understand that this is somewhat subjective but very important.

On occasion in Italy they do loose saddle stitching to close the back of tie which is done very fast and may not hold up as long as the normal style of small tight stitches.

For the best ties you should be able to talk to the the tie maker and they should be custom made - bespoke as not only do you get what you want with a custom made – bespoke tie but the construction is usually more carefully done as the tie maker is concentrating not just on making the tie but on including all the preferences of his customer.

Also ties should not be made under contract as they will tend to be made fast and the contractors will cover up mistakes.