Sam Hober Custom Made / BespokeTies
We craft our custom made / bespoke ties by hand, one by one, slowly, carefully, and with a passion for excellence.
Each tie starts as a discussion with our client, and ends when the finished tie is perfect.
After careful thought, we draft each pattern and precisely cut the silk and wool by hand. Our secret technique is that as we make a tie we stop at each stage and look at every fold, cut and stitch. If anything is not exactly in balance we revise and repeat that part of the tie's construction, until we are satisfied.
To appreciate one of our artisanally made ties you need to hold it in your hand, feel the balance and inspect the small details. Every tie is made in our workshop, we never contract out the making of our ties.
We use hundreds of different English, Irish, Italian and Thai silks. Our family has been making clothes in the USA for 50 years and weaving traditional handcrafted Thai silk for hundreds of years in Thailand, which allows us to weave our own silk designs and comfortably work with European silk mills to weave new silks on a regular basis.
Our silk designs are often based on traditional patterns ranging from classic American and English stripes to solid Italian grenadines. I think James Bond would love our grenadine ties, and Indiana Jones would be very happy with our black Atkinsons Irish poplin ties. Our Jacquard patterns and printed silks tend to be conservative.
On the more exotic side our handwoven Thai silk is completely different from modern machine-made silk. Our shot silk is very iridescent and our Mudmee Thai silk is made by tying and dyeing the silk yarn and then weaving the fabric by hand on the Thai traditional long loom which is made of wood. We use the more traditional thick silk yarn in some of our Thai silk ties. Which has a rough texture and slubs similar to what in the west is thought of as "raw" silk.
The construction of our ties includes everything from standard three-fold ties to lined six and unlined seven-fold ties, and occasionally eight-fold ties. Our house style uses a hand-rolled edge for a soft natural look. For the keeper and the tipping on the underside of the tie, we typically use the same silk as the main part of the tie. Although we can also use a contrasting silk for the tipping, if you like.
We use a very springy combed Italian 100% wool in different weights (depending on the project) for the interlinings of our ties. Except for our classic seven-fold ties which are unlined. Each interlining is cut by hand. Custom tie makers have always used wool interlinings for their wrinkle resistance.
We make the our ties by hand. The keeper is sewn into the seam so that it will last for years. We carefully sew the back of the tie closed with a slip stitch and two bar-tacks. The tie gently moves when worn and stretches when knotted and untied.
We can make a tie with any length, width or shape that you request, including custom made 7 fold ties, and 6 fold ties (Which in Italy are often called 7 fold ties). .
David, Noina, Benjamin & Samantha (Sam) Hober
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