Sam Hober Tie Guide
A good start to ordering a necktie is to email us the following information:
1) The silks that you are interested in.
Each silk (in both the thumbnail and the detailed product description) will have an item number, for example: EPDT-6.
We try our best to have our photos show true colors, however, individual monitors will always have variances. Swatches are available to order if you need an exact color.
57 inches is a good standard length. Depending on your height and body type you may need a longer or shorter tie. The more traditional ties range in width from 3.5 inches to 3.75 inches wide at the widest. A larger gentlemen who is ordering longer ties may wish to have wider ties. A good middle ground is 3.75 inches.
Please note that it is normal for a tie to have slight variations in its measurements after its long trip to reach you. After you wear your tiea few times it will adjust its shape and should be just right.
With a hand made tie there will be variations in width when you measure it from day to day and also there will be variations of roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length and 1/8 to 1/4 inch in width when we measure compared to when you measure.
3) The type of knot that you prefer.
For example the classic four-in-hand or half-Windsor, and whether you like a small or large knot.
4) What type of construction you prefer.
A standard lined 3-fold tie works very well in almost all situations.
Lined four-fold ties are a good construction for grenadine ties as the even number of folds helps the durability of a tie.
Six-fold ties are an elegant construction which are good when you prefer a heavier tie and want to enhance the drape of a tie.
Unlined seven-fold ties are beautiful ties that will not have the wrinkle resistance of a lined tie and will tend to have smaller knots.
5) Special requests for your tie's shape.
We normally suggest a classic well proportioned shape.
However, if your collar type is usually quite wide we can make your tie's shape wider in the middle where you knot your tie. Or we can do the reverse.
If you want us to create a pattern based on a current favorite tie. For ties up to 59 inches long please let us know the width at 15, 18, 23 and 26 inches from the tip. For longer ties email for help.
6) To determine the correct tie length.
First, please measure untied your best fitting tie from tip to tip.
Next, tie your tie and note how many inches from your belt the big and small ends are.
Our goal is to have the large end when you are wearing your tie be in the area of your belt (or where you prefer it if you are wearing braces), and for the small end to be 2 inches above the large end. Occasionally some gentlemen prefer for the big and small ends to be of equal length we do not suggest this but will be happy to make any length that you wish.
So for example if your tie is 57 inches tip to tip and when wearing your tie the big end is roughly on your belt buckle and the small end is 2 inches higher 57 inches is a good length.
If the small end is 4 inches above the big end add 2 inches (57+2=59) to get a good length of 59 inches.
If the small end is below your big end then your tie is too long and you would subtract. So for example if your small end is 3 inches below your belt you would subtract 5 inches to get a length of (57-5 = 52) 52 inches.
All things being equal we generally will add two inches for a half-Windsor or 3 inches for a full Windsor knot.
We can adjust the height of your keeper. (The loop that holds the small end of the tie.)
Please note that there is roughly a 1/4 inch variance at times in the length of a handmade tie. Also depending on the silk and how often you wear your tie the silk can stretch over time - especially grenadines and other loose weaves. We measure ties turned on their back gently pressing down. It is not uncommon for our measurements to be slightly different than yours.
7) Please let us know if you have a preference for the direction that your stripes have.
The American style* has the stripes starting from the high left and going to the low right (looking at the wearer) and the British style* is typically (but not always) the opposite. We will use the American style unless you request the British style.
Typically in the USA the American style is used unless you belong to the school, regiment or club etc. with which the stripe pattern is associated. Some gentlemen prefer the British style as they like the aesthetics of the British look, although there exists the possibility that you will create ill will if you do not have "membership" rights to certain ties.
Many American gentlemen have philosophically decided that in the USA anything goes but while in Great Britain they will be much more careful with what they wear.
Please note that the photographs of our striped silks are only examples as we do not have any ready-made ties for sale, and we will be very happy to make the stripes go in the direction that you request if we have enough silk on hand. Depending on the silk there may be an extra charge for the British direction.
* We use the terms "American" and "British" styles in a general way.
8) The interlining of your tie.
We use a very luxurious 100% Italian wool interlining for our ties.
We also can add cotton interlinings if a tie needs extra thickness, but not much extra weight.
Keep in mind that the weight of the silk that you select and the tie's construction will be the major influence on your tie's weight not the interlining.
9) Please let us know any questions that you may have.
The news section of our online store has information on the time it will take for your tie to be made. If you are going to a wedding or important meeting please let us know and we will try to make your tie faster.
Some additional information.
What is a custom made tie?
A custom made tie is a tie where you pick your fabric, the type of tie construction as well as the length, shape and width of your tie.
The weight of your tie will be determined by your silk, your tie's construction, and the tie's interlining.
You will be able to have a conversation with your tie maker and the tie will be made very slowly with the highest level of attention to detail.
What is a bespoke tie?
A bespoke tie is exactly the same as a custom tie. "Bespoke" is a traditional British term which historically meant that a certain piece of fabric was spoken for.
What is a made to order or made to measure tie?
A tie that is made to order will typically have a limited number of choices for fabric and construction. Also interaction with the actual tie maker will be limited so you can't have a conversation obout knots and shapes.
Sam Hober Ties:
Sam Hober's tie making is done by hand in our workshop in Thailand.
All our ties are custom made or "bespoke". Which means that we listen carefully to what you need. We do not make made to order or made to measure ties.
Then we work very slowly on your ties to get all the small details correct.
The Hober family business has been making clothes for over 50 years; and raising silk worms and weaving silk for hundreds of years.
We put our heart into every tie and do not consider an order complete until you are happy.
We welcome all suggestions and ideas.
Please feel free to ask as many questions as you like.
What is a 7-fold tie?
Please note that there is a great deal of confusion regarding "7-fold ties." A classic 7-fold tie is made with seven actual folds and no interlining or tipping. The silk in a classic 7-fold tie can range from very thin to thick. An unlined 7-fold tie will not have the wrinkle resistance of a lined tie.
In Italy what is commonly called a "7-fold tie," is usually a lined 6-fold tie. A lined 6-fold tie is a very nice tie. It has the elegance of a 7-fold tie, yet the wrinkle resistance of a lined tie.
Where do you place the bar tack and keeper on a 6 or 7-fold tie?
Typically we place the bar tack and keeper on our 6 and 7-fold ties a bit higher up, to allow the folds to clearly show. We can also upon request lower the bar tack and keeper.
Please note that we hand-fold our multi-fold ties and that there is a small variance of roughly 1/2 an inch in where we place the keeper.
The keeper's position will have a subtle influence on the length of your tie in that where the small end of the tie ends up will effect how you tie your tie.
Options for your custom made tie include but are not limited to:
1) Different silk for the tipping and/or keeper.
2) The shape that you prefer.
3) Multi-fold constructions, depending on the thickness and texture of the silk.
4) Bar tack colors.
5) Monogrammed keepers.
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